I was recently published for the first time in this summer’s edition of Create Jewelry from the publishers of Beadwork magazine. Okay, technically I have had my work published in Shipwreck Beads’ print ads but this is the first time I have been independently published. It was actually the first time I ever even submitted anything for publishing. I am super honored to announce that not only was my work published but they actually accepted THREE pieces!!
Included in this issue are 101 all new bracelet, necklace and earring designs to inspire you to make incredible jewelry. I am honored to be included in this issue with so many jewelry designers that I admire! Get your copy at your local retailer or download one from the Inteweave store now!
Every once in a while someone brings me a bead and says “what do you use THIS for?” with a puzzled look on their face. And most of the time, I can usually come up with something. The other day, however, when someone brought me the all new Pips by Preciosa Ornela I was completely stumped. Resembling watermelon seeds, this tiny drop bead is a completely unique new shape. After a pondering it for a few moments, earrings came to mind. Several different styles of earrings in fact! Using a handful of basic supplies, I was able to come up with 8 different pairs of earrings!
Pair A - Cut about 10 inches of craft wire. String on one 20mm long gold tube, then alternate 2mm gold rounds (6 pieces) and pip beads (5 pieces) followed by another gold tube. Make a wrapped loop and finish by attaching to a gold ear wire. Pair B - Cut about 10 inches of craft wire. String on one 20mm long gold tune, a pip bead, one 12mm long gold tube, pip bead, 12mm gold tube, pip bead, and another 20mm gold tube. Make a wrapped loop and attach to a gold ear wire. Pair C - Cut about 10 inches of craft wire. String on a single pip bead. Thread the wire through one side of a 20mm gold tube, then string through the opposite side of the bead. Fold the wire over the top of the tube and make a wrapped loop in the center of the tube. Connect to a jump ring, then an ear wire to complete the earring. Pair D - With a 6-step looping tool, make 12 6mm jump rings with the craft wire. Connect 10 4mm jump rings together and attach to an ear wire. Thread a pip bead onto a craft wire ring and attach to every other jump ring. The last pip+ring will connect to the loop on the ear wire. Repeat for the second earring. Pair E - Make a wrapped loop onto a 6 inch piece of craft wire. String on 5 2mm round beads, a pip bead, a round bead, a pip bead, round bead, pip bead, then 5 more round bead. Make another wrapped loop on the opposite end. Curve into a circle and connect the ends together with a jump ring. Use another jump ring to connect the hoop to an ear wire. Pair F - Make a wrapped loop onto a 10 inch piece of craft wire. String on 15 pieces of liquid gold tubes and make a wrapped loop on the opposite end. Connect with a jump ring and set aside. Using 6 inches of craft wire each, wrap 6 pip beads. Connect the pip beads to the jump ring at the center of the hoop, using one jump ring for the outer pips and 3 for the center dangle. Attach an ear wire with an additional ear wire and repeat to complete the pair. Pair G - Cut 6 pieces of craft wire, 6 inches each. String a pip onto each wire and make a wrapped loop. On two of the pieces, string on a 20mm tube. On two more, string on a 12mm tube. On the last two, string on a liquid gold tube. Finish off the wire pieces with a wrapped loop. Connect a jump ring to each dangle. Attach the dangles together with an additional jump ring. To finish the pair, connect another jump ring to an ear wire. Pair H – Wrap the top of two pip beads, trimming only one end of the wire. String on a 2mm gold bead and complete the drop with a wrapped loop. String a liquid gold tube onto the craft wire and make a wrapped loop. Connect one end to the precious link before completing the loop. Repeat until you have 3 liquid gold links on each earring. Attach to an ear wire to finish.
Isn’t this a fun little bead? I’d love to see what other people can come up with. Since they are so brand spanking new, I haven’t seen them used yet. Shipwreck Beads has 28 different colors of the pip bead in stock right now. Hurry up and pick up a strand in every shade before they sell out. If you come up with something great, hop on over to Facebook and share it on our page!
Have you seen the brand new pellet beads from Preciosa Ornela? We just got them in stock in over 50 colors and finishes! They are such a fun little bead. When trying to come up with a new project to feature them, a co-worker suggested I try something on the Ricks Beading Loom. I hadn’t used it since taking Paul Ricks’ class in early May, so I decided to get out my supplies and give it a shot.
I tried it one way, and the pattern didn’t quite work out as planned. After re-drafting my pattern, I was able to come up with a design I love and I hope you love it too! I also used KO thread for the first time. When Paul was here, he suggested that we carry this thread, as he feels it’s far superior to anything on the market. I completely agree! Other threads are prone to tangling and fraying, but not KO! It’s really heavy-duty and working with it is a breeze.
There are a lot of steps to this tutorial, so I have broken it up into three parts. The first part will show you how to set up your loom. In the second part, I will discuss the looming process and the bracelet pattern. The third part will show you how to finish off your loomed piece with a toggle clasp. I tried to make it as easy to follow as possible.
Steps: How to Set Up the Loom (Instructions from the Ricks Beading Loom Site HERE) 1) Set your loom to 6.5 inches by measuring from rod to rod. (Image 1)
2) Pull several inches off of the spool of thread and wrap one end around the wooden peg and secure it in the slot. Place the peg into the second opening from the left. (Images 2-3)
3) With the thread still on the spool, you will begin to set your warp threads. Bring the spool over the top of the headstock rod. (Image 4)
4) Bring your spool OVER and around the tailstock rod. (Image 5)
5) Bring your spool UNDER the headstock rod and continue this process until you get to your last warp thread. (Images 6-7)
6) You must have one more thread than beads in your row. Since this pattern calls for 7 beads across, you will need 8 threads. Be sure to end your warps with your thread OVER the rod. (Image 8)
7) Wrap the thread around the peg and secure it in the slot before snipping it from the spool. Insert the peg into the second hole from the right. (Image 9)
8) Tighten the threads evenly. You can do this by twisting the pegs. It’s easiest to tighten the outside threads and then gently pull on the center ones to even out the tension. (Image 10)
9) Pull off a length of thread in a workable length (about a yard) and secure one end in a wooden peg. Put the peg into the left-most hole. Thread the other end into your needle. (Image 11)
10) Using the warp separator card (included w/ the loom) or a business card, separate the warp threads. The threads should be over and under the card as shown. (Image 12) Steps: Building the Bracelet
11) Bring your threaded needle under the warp threads and string on 7 beads in color B. (Image 14) Tip: Keep your beads to the left of the loom to easily thread the needle.
12) From underneath your warp threads, put one bead in between each thread. Thread the needle back through the beads and pull tight. It’s a good idea, when threading the first several rows, to thread the needle into the beads backwards, to avoid piercing the threads with the needle.
13) Bring your needle underneath the warp threads and string on 3 beads in color A, one pellet bead in color D and three more beads in color A. Thread the needle back through the row and pull tight.(Image 13)
14) String row three in the same process above in this order: 2 pieces color A, 1 piece color D, 1 piece color C, 1 piece color D, and 2 pieces color A. (Image 15)
15) Remove the warp separator card and slide the beads down the warp threads until you come to the headstock rod. (Image 16-17)
16) Continue adding beads in the same process outlined above in this order: 1 piece color A, 1 piece color D, 3 pieces color C, 1 piece color D, and 1 piece color A. (Image 18)
17) Row 5: 1 piece color D, 2 pieces color C, 1 piece color E, 2 pieces color C, and 1 piece color D.
19) Row 6: 1 piece color A, 1 piece color D, 3 pieces color C, 1 piece color D, and 1 piece color A. (Image 19)
20) Row 7: 2 pieces color A, 1 piece color D, 1 piece color C, 1 piece color D, and 2 pieces color A.
21) Row 8: 3 pieces color A, 1 piece color D, and 3 pieces color A. (Image 20)
22) Row 9: 7 pieces color B.
23) When you run out of thread, bring your needle back through several rows and secure with surgeon’s knots in between several different beads. I will usually make 3 separate knots. (Images 22-24)
24) Thread a new piece of string onto the needle and string through the beads, several rows back. Tie several surgeon’s knots in different places and continue on beading the pattern. (Images 26-28)
Steps: Finishing the Bracelet
25) Continue the above pattern until you run out of space. The diamond pattern should repeat 5 times.
26) Squish the beads down the warp threads, toward the head stock. The beads may “wrinkle” a little bit. Complete the last row, it will be snug. (Image 29)
27) Remove the bracelet from the warp rods. (Images 30-31)
28) On the end of the bracelet with only one string (the opposite end will have 3 strings) thread your needle onto the string.
29) String on 5 beads in color B. (Image 32)
30) Thread the needle through the loop on the hoop end of the toggle clasp. (Image 33)
31) Bring the needle back through the first bead, then add 4 more beads in color B. (Images 34-35)
32) String the needle through the first row of beads and pull snug. (Images 36-37)
33) Thread the needle through the clasp section several more times to reinforce the connection.
34) After reinforcing the clasp, bead through the next several rows and tie surgeon’s knots in several different areas. Trim excess. (Image 38)
35) Thread the excess warp thread onto the needle, bead through the rows and tie off with surgeon’s knots. Repeat with the second warp thread. Trim excess.
36) Thread the needle with the remaining thread and string on 6 beads in color B.
37) Thread the needle through the loop on the bar end of the toggle clasp. (Image 42)
38) Bring the needle back through the first two beads, then add 4 more beads in color B. (Images 43-44)
39) Finish off the bracelet as outlined in steps 32-34 above.
WHEW! Did you get all of that? I know it seems complicated, but really, the Ricks Beading Loom makes it easy. And the project only takes 1-2 hours to complete. Since I am now comfortable using the loom, it took me a little over an hour to finish the second bracelet.
I just love the way the pellet beads look inside the pattern. With so many colors available, this bracelet is really easy to customize. I’m sort of in love with this color combination though, isn’t it just dreamy? The colors just blend and flow nicely and the copper clasp brings it all together. The finished bracelet measures 8 inches, so it is a little loose for my taste . Any adjustment in size however, would alter the pattern and it wouldn’t finish up so evenly. I’m willing to wear a bracelet that’s a little on the big side with a pattern that pretty? Aren’t you? I think I may need to make another version of this bracelet with silver and black beads or maybe a blue one? The possibilities are limitless!
Right now, until July 3rd all of our BRAND NEW Czech products are on sale for 10%. That means you can get the pellet beads used in this tutorial for a special introductory price. You can also find thorns and spikes and daggers and new styles of neon beads!
Today’s post continues to spotlight our amazing new chain selection (on sale now) with a feature on this fantastic fishbone chain. Coming in seven gorgeous colors, this funky chain is sure to add just the right about of edge to your jewelry design.
I decided to use the chain to whip up some simple pairs of earrings. Using basic jewelry making techniques, you can make several pairs in no time. I’ve worn the silver and black pair (pictured below) pretty much every day since I made them!
Supplies: Fishbone Chain Spike Charm Jump Rings Eye Pins Ear Wires Steps: Gold Earrings:
1) Count out 10 links (approx. 2 inches) of chain and trim with flush cutters.
2) With the prongs of the chain facing down (like an arrow) attach the spike charm with a jump ring. (Image 1, 2)
3) Attach ear wires to the top of the chain with a jump ring. (Image 3)
4) Repeat steps to complete the earring set. (Image 4)
1) Count out 8 links of chain and trim with wire cutters.
2) Thread beads onto eye pins and make a simple loop. (Images 5, 6, 7)
3) Connect one side of loop to the top of the chain and the other to the ear wire. (Image 8)
4) With a jump ring, attach spike charm to the end of the chain. (Images 1, 2)
5) Repeat steps to complete the earring set. (Image 9)
Silver/Black Earrings (Show Below): 1) Count out 8 links of chain and trim with wire cutters.
2) Thread beads onto eye pins and make a simple loop. (Images 5, 6, 7)
3) Connect one side of the loop to the spike charm.
4) Attach the other end of the loop to the chain with a jump ring.
5) With a jump ring, attach ear wire to the top of the chain. (Image 3)
6) Repeat steps to complete the earring set. Items Used: FI45-G, 4FI221-G, 28CX8854, PW2360-AG
Earrings are one of my favorite quick and easy projects. With just a few simple steps, a pair can be made for every day of the week. Simple to construct, earrings are a piece of jewelry that can really make a statement. The fishbone chain is so versatile and looks really stylish all on its own. By adding beads or charms, you can really amp up your design. The hammered finish on the links is a nice touch as well. You can keep it simple by only using a few links of chain or you can really punch it by making a pair of shoulder-dusting earrings.
I just love it when we get new products in. It makes me feel so inspired and I want to dive right in. When I first saw this faux chainmaille chain, I knew immediately what I wanted to make. A bracelet with two layers of chain and rhinestone cup chain sandwiched in between. I was going to wrap it all together with the Chinese knotting cord and it was going to be awesome.
And then I started to make it… The links on the black chain were too small and the knotting cord wasn’t quite stiff enough to thread easily through the chain. No big deal, I’ll just use leather, I thought. I started lashing the three pieces of chain together with the leather and the more I wove them, the chain started to curve and get too stiff. It was not going to be wearable. I was not too thrilled at this point. The bracelet looked so cool in my head and I was not about to give up on it!
I decided to stick with the chainmaille theme and connect them all together with jump rings. It worked! But, again, not without some frustration and hair pulling. This is why I’ve never attempted “real” chainmaille in the first place! Fiddling with two pairs of pliers, working the jump rings in the right positions. GAH!!!
All that said, I am super happy with the finished product. The bracelet is edgy and glamorous all at once. It’s extremely comfortable and since I’ve worked out all the kinks, it should come together for you no problem at all! Here it goes.
1) Trim faux chainmaille chain into 2 equal six-inch pieces.
2) Lay all three chains next to each other, with the rhinestone chain extending slightly on either side.
3) Starting in the center, connect the two chainmaille chains with a silver jump ring, sandwiching the rhinestone chain between then. I found it easiest to work with the backside of the rhinestone chain. (Image 1)
4) Continue connecting the chains together with jump rings working your way out from the center. (Image 2) I started out only adding 5 jump rings but found that the chains did not stay together well enough when I was wearing the finished bracelet. I ended up adding additional jump rings so that there is approx. one jump ring for every three rhinestones for a total of 10 jump rings.
5) Connect the chains with a jump ring at the last link of the chainmaille chain. (Image 3)
6) Trim excess rhinestone chain so that there is only one rhinestone outside of the chainmaille chain.
7) Attach a cup chain connector to the last rhinestone link on each side of the bracelet. (Image 4)
8) I personally don’t care for the look of the cup chain connector, so I folded it inwards and then flipped down the loop to shorten it. (Images 5-6)
9) Attach one matte black jump ring to one side of the bracelet. (Image 7)
10) On the opposite side add one matte black jump ring and a lobster clasp. (Image 8-9)
I must say, I am really digging on this bracelet. It’s comfortable to wear and once I figured out how to get the design from my head to my wrist, the construction is pretty easy. You just have to be smarter than the jump rings, right? Anyway… This bracelet is the perfect mix of edgy elegance and punk perfection. It can be dressed up for a night out or with jeans and a simple tee for a day at the office. The matte black chain makes it a little bit punk while the bling of the crystal softens it just enough.
I don’t know about you, but for me, June tends to be a very busy month. School is coming to an end, the anticipation of summer right around the corner, and Father’s day! Men can be especially difficult to create handmade gifts for but metal stamping makes it really easy.
I thought I would put together a project that would work for Dad, Grandpa, and any other special guy in your life. In addition to Dad’s, this little keepsake is a fun project to whip up to commemorate all sorts of special occasions. It’s easy to make and not to mention inexpensive as well! So, grab your metal stamping tools and let’s get to work! (Check out my previous metal stamping projects HERE.)
Steps: 1) Secure your penny to the bench block with masking tape.
2) Stamp desired message. (Image 1)
3) Color in stamped area with a permanent black marker. (Image 2)
4) Clean up excess marker with rubbing alcohol applied to a cotton swab. (Image 3)
5) Punch a hole in the penny with the metal hole punch. (Image 4)
6) Flip the penny over and lightly tap the punched area with the rounded end of the hammer to smooth out the burrs created when the hole was punched.
7) Open the smaller split ring with the split ring pliers. (Image 6)
8) Attach the penny, using a pair of chain nose pliers to pull the ring through if needed. (Images 7 & 8)
9) For a keychain: Use the split ring pliers to open and attach the bigger split ring. (Image 9) For a necklace: String the smaller split ring onto the ball chain necklace.
There are so many possibilities for messages that can be stamped onto the pennies. Some of my favorites are: Class of stamped onto a 2014 penny. “BE THE CHANGE” is another great message for grads. How about “MAKE A WISH” or the word “THOUGHTS” as in a penny for your thoughts? Stamping “LUCKY” onto a penny from the year your kids were born is another great idea.
You could also stamp in numbers for the month and day to coordinate with the year the penny was made. Perhaps a birthday or a wedding anniversary?
A “LUCKY US” penny paired with one stamped with the happy couples’ initials is a great keepsake wedding gift. You could use one penny from the year the couple met and another from the year they were married.
This project is so easy and inexpensive, they would make a great RAK or “random act of kindness” gift. Forgo the hole and just stamp a message into the penny. Leave them around town, perhaps in an extra penny bin at a gas station or in the tip jar for your favorite barista. I stamped a handful of pennies to give away. I can already imagine the smile on someones face if they are the one to find it!
All in all, this project makes for a quick and easy gift that is both thoughtful and inexpensive. I can’t wait to make handfuls of them to gift to the people I love!